Snow in Takayama, Havoc in Kyoto (Update 2)

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In short: Takayama was beautiful and thus far (some sixteen hours in) Kyoto is pure havoc. (Opinion changes slightly in Update 2.)

But first, parting shots of Tokyo:






































On Wednesday (April 4) the train ride from Tokyo was speedy (ah, Shinkansen!) and we enjoyed the scenery flashing by at a relatively photo-challenging pace. Expansive green fields and many people working in them or walking dogs in the lanes. Even in the most humble of circumstances, we see elaborately shaped trees and careful landscaping. Dark rounded rows of tea are neatly kept. There is a deep and rocky gorge with teal green water, at times still and others roiling over small rapids. Thick stands of bamboo fence the shore.











While changing trains we buy obento and drinks. Troy chooses something called Can Chu Hi, which tastes not good, even when mixed liberally with Coke. Eventually the half-full can makes its way to Mother, where we learn that Can Chu Hi is sake. At least it came with a small, semi-redeeming packet of almonds.

Photo: Obento, by Ian Smith

We reached Takayama in early evening, the mountain air brisk. As this is one of the towns for which we couldn't readily find a weather forecast, we were amazed when snow fell. I saved some to bring home, less than three ounces of course. We were even more amazed to find out that some of our bunch did not bring anything resembling a jacket. Some had even packed six pairs of shorts. Hm.

Hard to understand, but pretty.
The jacket dilemma was resolved initially through layers and then later by a trip to a store. Well, not really resolved, because instead of a jacket, Troy came back with a heavy shirt. What it lacks in weather resistance is more than made up for in presumably unintended humor. The shirt's lengthy message is about knowledge and courage and is concluded with something like "if you don't want to die, then do not do out of the house by you." What? In truth, this shirt signals the death knell for any hopes I still harbored to learn Japanese. Gary, Troy and Ian later went back to find a shirt for Ian (jacket-less but shorts-full), but instead came back with a shirt for me that commends me for my listening skills and says BANG! What??

Takayama in general turns out to be very touristy, but the old homes are truly lovely. Dark wood, heavy beams, steep stairs. We meet up with Mother and Father at the morning market by the river. The stalls sell all manner of edibles, and unlike our usual travel experiences, no one shouts out what they're offering or accosts us as we stroll the lane.

A small boy scampers along with a leash in hand; at its end, a white puppy in a red coat. The puppy is interested in everything and is all over the place sniffing and exploring. With the crowd in the market, this makes things even more of an adventure for the boy. His shoes have squeakers in them which makes his progress even funnier. Quack quack quack.


Update 2, still Takayama and then Kyoto:

We find a small store which sells lovely miniature Japanese furniture (my secret passion). Thus I find all of my souvenirs at once. I can now furnish a scale model Japanese house with some serious goods. Can hardly wait.

Along a side street, we find a small shop with a dirt floor and a proprietess who could not be more gracious. We are promptly seated at the single table and soon have our fill of toasted mochi basted with a savory sauce.

In a neighboring street, two short-tailed cats spat briefly, one seeking cover under a car and the other dancing away to sit serenely in a sweet little garden. Neither is willing to make friends with a girl who cannot properly call a cat in the local dialect. Rats.

Photo: Floats, by Ian Smith

Continuing through the old neighborhood, we find the float museum, which houses four of the eleven or twelve (depending on the occasion) fantastic floats used in the spring and autumn festivals. They are heavily detailed, lacquered and gilded... peonies, temple dogs, phoenix, turtles, dragons, marionettes spraying tiny confetti. As a bonus, we are given entry to a nearby museum which features miniature castles, temples, shrines and assorted buildings. Fantastic detail and more impressive than anything of its scale I've ever seen.


Lovely reddish-brown throated swallows dip and dive over our heads. Some make nests in clear view and we strain to hear if there are babies.

We visit a small stationer's shop, where there is an abacus in use rather than the cash register right next to it, finding inexpensive origami paper and other supplies. (One of these days I really will finish the thousand cranes I was to complete in our first year of marriage. Ha.) Mother and the shopkeeper get along so well that the shopkeeper runs out after us and thrusts a delicate origami ball ornament into her hands as a memento. Mother is tickled. :)

Dinner is a rich feast of fish, beef, mountain vegetables, rice, udon.

When not wandering about, we enjoy deep, hot baths in our rooms. We only found the communal bath on our last day. No doubt this will be soon rectified. Meantime, we are all better for the soaks, however solitary.


Kyoto will change all of this. Ian read in the guidebooks that first-time visitors to the city usually have a very poor impression, finding it much like large cities anywhere and generally depressing. True! But our first full day (today, Saturday 4/7) allows us more time to explore and be thoroughly enchanted.

Photo: Kyoto at night, by Ian Smith

[ Side note: A crowd of businessmen (dare I classify them as drunken? Or is that too stereotypical a description?) just passed behind me in the hotel lobby. One looked over my shoulder and exclaimed "Ha! Blogger!" I am torn between validation and embarrassment. ]

Breakfast is served all together in Troy and Ian's room, which is the largest of the three. It is also closest to the elevators as these guys sleep through anything, but that's another story. Asagohan consists of salmon, rice, miso soup, eggs, some sort of potatoes, tofu in a beefy broth, pickled vegetables, dried fish, seaweed, and I forget what else. We learn that Troy and Ian have already been to the baths in the basement, with Ian lurking nose-level in the water and occasionally submerging. We all slept very well in our first true futon experience (it's about time!!! for both futons and good sleep!) and are ready for the day.

Photo: Kyoto, by Ian Smith

Mother and Father find a bus tour which will take them to four temples, including along the river. [ Scarce on details, but will fill in later. ] Gary, Troy, Ian and I set out for the Philosopher's Walk and nearby shrines and temples, including Ginkaku-ji. The streets and paths are packed with people, as the cherry blossoms lining the way are in full and glorious bloom, and it's a weekend so no one has other distractions. Everyone ... except us... has umbrellas, and since it begins to rain even before we are out of the taxi, we are slowly dampened. I may have become full-blown bedraggled at some point. 30% chance of rain, you know. Whatever - it's cherry blossom time!

Photo: Tea House, by Ian Smith

Temples are rich with moss, azaleas and camellias maintained by a dedicated group of landscapers who wield straw brooms to sweep up pine needles and spent blossoms and ferret out weeds. Sand is sculpted around rocks and greenery. Bamboo grows in closely controlled thickets. Bright carp swim languidly through cool pools. Enchanting in all ways.

We are ready for a late lunch but are hastily and formally denied entrance at our first two choices. The denials didn't fit with the hours posted by the doors, so no idea what that was about. Choice three was a charm, and we settled in for a feast. I recognized shrimp, raw tuna, eel, bamboo shoots, fish cake, egg, potatoes, vegetable rolls, miso and rice, but there were a dozen other things that none of us could identify. Too bad we didn't think to take a picture! Everything was good, so much so that I didn't bother going out for dinner.

Mother and Father stayed in this evening, having done plenty of walking during stops on their bus tour and having had an early dinner on their way back. Mother declined to join me in the communal bath, so off I go on my own. Let's hope the boys' and the girls' baths are very clearly marked.

Oyasuminasai!


A bit more Takayama:



















Other Kyoto:

I'd have done a better job on the baseball photo, but the program abruptly changed to the evening news. I understood the baseball better.